Fabrics & fibers to add (or create!) shaping ... |
Batting, Buckram, & Coutil |
last update: 6 Feb 2008 |
| item | dimensions & description | picture | suggested uses | price | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 100% Cotton "Linter" Batting | 27" wide - 1" thick uncompressed ½" (or less) when compressed Clean but uncombed, uncarded, and unbleached type of batting modernly used in high-grade upholstery. Single layer, when compressed by quilting and covered with appropriate fabic, meets An Tir's Book of Combat regs for gambesons. |
Sorry - no picture yet.... | Excellent for gambeson and fencing doublet batting, peasecod belly doublet padding, shoulder or bust "improvers", etc. Whether using a tack stitch for garment padding or standard quilting stitch for gambesons, place stitch lines no further than 2" apart. When used in upholstery, it forms a compressed outermost layer under the covering muslin or fashion fabric. Comfy! |
$3.85/yard | |
| 100% Cotton Batting | 45" wide Warm & Natural made by The Warm Company. Needle-punched through from both sides into a fine base material without glues. Will not beard or lump. You can actually space your quilting stitch-lines up to 10" apart! To attain widths not listed here or to better utilise small pieces, simply butt the edges together and run a zig-zag stitch to join them.... or sandwich them together like usual sewing, run a loose zig-zag that goes off the edge (use a presser foot that will keep the stitch from collapsing) and then open the layers like a book and flatten out the seam by hand. |
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Excellent for lightweight quilts whether for show or use. For clothes, it can add a smoothing layer over other 'improvements'. Excellent for 1400s quilted jupons and 1700-1800s quilted petticoats! Now gaining favor for gambesons when used in at least a double layer (although I'd use four layers). (I'd also advise running the quilt lines closer together when used for gambesons or the like....) |
45" wide - $5/yd. | |
| Buckram | 21" wide. White. Single-ply stiffened cotton. Water-soluble starch makes it easy to shape - simply dampen piece, let sit a minute, then start pulling, pushing, stretching and distorting into desired shape. When achieved, prop with crumpled paper if needed and let dry. Do not over-dampen or starch will be washed out. Buckram can be ironed with light steam but carefully check the iron's soleplate for residue before ironing anything else. |
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Standard single-ply used for hats, bonnets, etc. | elsewhere $3.50 and up our price - $3/yard | |
| Crinoline | 37" wide. White. Single-ply stiffened cotton. Although normally used 'flat', crinoline can be used as above. When used for skirt/petticoat work, it should be made removable/dismountable so the rest of the garment can be washed without the crinoline suffering water-damage. When not in contact with skin or floor, ruffles and ruffle-headers like bustles don't often need cleaning.... |
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skirt/petticoat/bustle stiffening, some light-weight hat and bonnet work, etc. | elsewhere $4.50 and up our price - $4/yard | |
| Nota bene: By working a layer each of buckram and crinoline together as a unit, you can achieve something remarkably similar to the much-vaunted but rather expensive 2-ply buckram. | |||||
| Coutil | 60" wide, 100% cotton with a narrow herringbone weave. | Sorry - no picture yet.... | Sturdy but flexible.The fabric for corsets, especially corsets of the 1800s! | $17/yard | |